Peruvians are the second biggest community of Hispanics in Connecticut, and to them, the month of July means “Fiestas Patrias", (Patriotic Holiday). It is the month when they celebrate Peruvian Independence Day. Over 50,000 Peruvians in the Nutmeg State continue to celebrate their traditions in the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave although they are thousands of miles away from their homeland.
Peruvians call Independence Day “Feliz 28”, it’s a popular saying to declare their independence of the over 500 years of colonialism from Spain. However, Peruvians start celebrating “Las Previas”, which means their patriotic festivities a couple of days before the actual July 28. “Vamos calentando”, they say to officially start July 28 and the next three days of celebrations.
In Peru, “Fiestas Patrias” is about family, friends, travel to the countryside, and, most importantly, food. But Peruvians who live abroad carry with them their cultural traditions with the greatest pride. Many Peruvians that migrate to the United States, have become ambassadors of their culture with the most powerful tool all Peruvians may possess, their gastronomy.
That is the case of Christian Bonilla (39) originally from Lima-Peru, who migrated to Connecticut 20 years ago and has a deep passion for Peruvian food. One of his first dreams, when he arrived in Connecticut, was to open up his restaurant. For the first six years, he worked hard to make his wish come true. He initially worked as a painter and construction worker, but he had the determination to save up enough money to open his business. A few years later, Christian opened not only one but two restaurants, Ceviche 101 in New Haven, and Ceviche Palace in Bridgeport.
“I had to start little by little. I made my dream come true due to hard work. Now Ceviche Palace has 11 years serving the Bridgeport Community, and I am proud”, said Christian with a big smile on his face.
For the eight-consecutive year, The World Travel Awards has recognized Peru as the "World's Best Culinary Destination". The cultural diversity of Peru, and its African, Italian, Japanese and Chinese influences, has made Peruvian gastronomy one of the most attractive in the world. The over 3,000 native Peruvian ingredients make the magic in the most demanding palates.
Proudly, Christian says, “When my costumers visit my restaurant, they ask for the roots of Peruvian food. Mostly, customers ask about the origins of Papa a la Huancaina, and ceviche, I feel happy and proud to tell them about our heritage and what food means to us. We do everything for our customers and when they leave, they do with a smile. Our food is delicious, and we go above and beyond their expectations”.
Particularly, Peruvians feel ambassadors of their heritage during their patriotic festivities. If you ever visit a Peruvian home, the “Abuelita” will tell you they are the best cooks on the planet. And they are right! There is nothing better in the world that a homemade Peruvian dish made from the hands of an “Abuelita” They cook with love! But the reason they feel confident about it is that unique taste comes from the different Peruvian regions. Coastal, Andes, Amazon. Peruvians themselves represent that flora and fauna of those regions, and they carry “La Sazón” representative of the millenary roots of Peruvian culture.
“In my case, my uncle was my mentor”, said Christian. "When I was 15 years old, he asked me if I could help in his restaurant kitchen because one of his workers called out sick. So, I said why Not! He taught me how to use knives to cut vegetables and meat. And since then, I just started to love the kitchen and the many different things I can do in Peruvian food”.
Christian came to Connecticut with experience acquired while he worked at upscale restaurants in the coastal lines of Lima
“A few years later, I started to work at the Chorrillos harbor, and there I learned how to make ceviches. Later, I started working at different restaurants in the Costa Verde beaches. I remember when I worked at El Salto del Fraile, and it was all about ceviches and seafood. There I learned about comidas criollas. Peruvian food is amazing,” he said.
Another renowned restaurant that Christian worked was “El Hawaiano” in Lima, he said has great memories working there because famous people from the Latin American entertaining industry would fell in love with his dishes. “I remember Angie Cepeda and Edgar Vivar, and many others, they loved the food. I took pictures with them. As an employee, I wasn’t supposed to, but I had to take that chance. We held the Peruvian pride high with our dishes”.
Peruvian gastronomy has art and culture expressed in its dishes. During “Fiestas Patrias”, Peruvians embrace more than ever their cultural heritage, and a big part of it is their cuisine, which contributes to consolidating the country’s cultural identity.
“Here in Connecticut, the Lomo Saltado is the most requested dish among Latinos,” said Christian, “But, for the Peruvian community, it’ll always be the ceviche.”
Christian said it is essential that Peruvians get involved in Connecticut politics, to have people who represent and advocate for the Peruvian community's needs. He believes that there has to be a balance in representation so that no one is left behind.
"We have to come together to have political representation here in Connecticut. We have a big Peruvian community in Bridgeport, in Hartford, and Stamford, but I don't see Peruvians active. Together we can do possible many things, so people must get involved. It's about time".
This year marks the 199th anniversary of the declaration of Peru's independence. More than ever, Peruvians highlight the Identity and Patriotism of their culture, coming together hand to hand with their customs that remain in force. With an open heart, Christian sends a fraternal greeting to the Peruvian community in the New England area.
"I am Peruvian, like a Papa Amarilla. I am incredibly proud to be Peruvian and to show my culture in my dishes. In past years, we displayed Peruvian traditional music to celebrate Peruvian independence day here at my restaurant, with Cajon, and guitars. But this year is different for everyone because of COVID-19. I miss the interaction with my customers, but I look forward to going back to our normal lives. I wish everyone, "Felices Fiestas Patrias."
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